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ThreeA self repair thread

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silats
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ThreeA self repair thread - Page 3 Empty Re: ThreeA self repair thread

Post by JasperF Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:42 pm

Anybody got tips on repairing loose shoulder joints on a TK?

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Post by Skipper11x Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:47 pm

I have a Bromwich HB that stood on a shelf for months then one day decided to topple. His feet & hip were loose so I tried a few fixes but only made things worse! Now he cannot stand even without his launcher so just be very careful and if you succeed let us here know so that I can try mine again.
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Post by dr37 Mon May 09, 2016 12:06 pm

wutasi wrote:
christopherswalls wrote:Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this dudes hands? I broke both of e wrist pegs like an idiot....

ThreeA self repair thread - Page 3 Image10

wow both hands? lol

Most people just drill the peg out.
If you wish to salvage the rest of that peg, I would suggest drilling a smaller hole first with a pin vise, then use similar width screw, screw in and pull out.

Bummed Out!
Just did this to another Oroshi too Sad When I got him, a couple days ago, i thought i "broke-in" the joints before his first pose out of the box. Now i just "broke" the joint... Arrggghhhh!
Can some one please tell me where to find replacement joints besides ebay?
I just got into 3A's and this is my 2nd piece, it's kind of hard to tell which way you can articulate the joint with the bulky gloves... i thought i was being careful - apparently not enough!
Any help/advice would be much appreciated.
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Post by Skipper11x Mon May 09, 2016 12:21 pm

I'd still email CS. I know you can buy replacement pegs for HT & Sideshow etc. but don't know which pegs fit 3a. Best of luck.
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Post by dr37 Mon May 09, 2016 12:29 pm

Skipper11x wrote:I'd still email CS. I know you can buy replacement pegs for HT & Sideshow etc. but don't know which pegs fit 3a. Best of luck.

Yeah i'll do that. The HT and Sideshow pegs look similar, but not sure if they'll work. Much thanks for the quick response and assistance Skipper11x.
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ThreeA self repair thread - Page 3 Empty how to repair(?) un well legs

Post by silats Fri Sep 23, 2016 1:55 pm

I just opened a new box of UK TK. Guess what? it has the worst legs and waist that it cannot balance.

I applied nail polisher on chest/waist ball joint by disassembling but any clue on how to disassemble or fix legs?

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Post by gundamben831 Sat Sep 24, 2016 2:29 am

I wish I knew of a solution for the legs but sadly I don't. If I get a dud I usually try to find another cheap similar body and then part out the replacement. You could try to disassemble the leg by removing the upper thigh and lower calf to get to the area where the screws are in the knee and tighten that up but it only seems to work for so long =/
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Post by wutasi Sat Sep 24, 2016 4:17 am

If you pull the thigh and calf apart while the leg is straight, one end of the knee peg should pop out.
With UK TK it should be the thigh end, and that allows you to access the upper ratchet. You can forget about the lower ratchet though, that peg won't budge from the calf.
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Post by Chivo Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:18 am

There is no easy solution for these new bodies. You must become a "plastic surgeon". That is you must cut through the sealed seams of the calves in order to access that bottom part of the knee joint as has been mentioned. And even when you have tightened the screws, the problem is these newer screws are flattened at the tip thus giving you a "grip" stopping point unlike the screws they used to use which had a "pointed" tip which seemed to give more gripping power in conjunction with the relief hole of the receiving plastic.
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Post by Indigo Mon Oct 03, 2016 5:57 pm

Hi guys,

I have not been able to find much on paint repairs on these forums. What do you recommend for fixing this paint chip?

ThreeA self repair thread - Page 3 Dsc_0510

Thanks in advance

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Post by <{OjO}> Mon Oct 03, 2016 7:26 pm

I'd try an enamel hobby paint that is a close match or you could just use a dark brown with a fine sponge to create a weathered effect over the area..! I have also used POSCA pens to fix small chips in the past.. Good luck with it..
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Post by Indigo Mon Oct 03, 2016 8:02 pm

Thanks <{OjO}>

Is there a particular paint brand you would recommend for this job?

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Post by wutasi Mon Oct 03, 2016 8:38 pm

Tamiya, Testors or Model Master, there are more out there but I haven't tried them. Keep in mind enamel paints are oil-based, recommended to be use in a well ventilated room because of the toxic fume release. You will also need paint thinner to dilute paint or clean the brushes.

Alternatively you can opt for acrylic (water-based) paint as they are non-toxic and easy to clean up with alcohol. I personally have positive experiences with Vallejo Acrylics but Tamiya should be pretty good too.
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Post by <{OjO}> Tue Oct 04, 2016 12:22 am

That's all great advice from WUTASI. I also like Humbrol paints! I'd also advise you to do test runs first before applying anything to your figures, just to get an idea of what it will look like.! All the best with it INDIGO, let us know how it works out...
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Post by SpiderPig Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:05 am

I use gundan marker for painting ! simple, not waste, work perfectly

For weathering, I use tamiya weathering kit, the color match easy for 3A stuff. Simple e perfect !
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Post by Indigo Tue Oct 04, 2016 12:30 pm

Cheers guys! Will let you know what comes out of it.
Out of curiosity, does 3A use oil-based or acrylic paint on its figures?

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Post by wutasi Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:35 pm

Definitely oil-based and toxic, ever notice that fine odor on almost every 3A figure we are all addicted to by now? Twisted Evil
Not to mention the disclaimer that figure is not a toy and intended for 15 year old and up. Wouldn't be surprised if they contain lead as well.
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Post by <{OjO}> Wed Oct 05, 2016 4:47 am

Ummm, I need a fix.!! What a Face
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Post by Chivo Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:53 am

We're all going to die. Twisted Evil
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Post by dr37 Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:17 am

I used to oil paint and my wife hated the smell. She rolls her eyes when she sees me catching a wiff of a figure when i open up the clamshell.
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Post by deru_here Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:53 pm

hey does anybody know how to open up TK bodies, I recently got into ThreeA figures and my third one has some issues. I purchased Rongu iku recently and was trying to remove the caps in the upper back of the fig to fix the shoulder joints but eventually drilled the plug with no luck getting to one of the screws and left the other one alone. I also cant move the right upper hip and i assume that its paint locked. How do i open these figures up with out doing to much damage to them like i did?????

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Post by wutasi Fri Jan 13, 2017 8:46 pm

deru_here wrote:hey does anybody know how to open up TK bodies, I recently got into ThreeA figures and my third one has some issues. I purchased Rongu iku recently and was trying to remove the caps in the upper back of the fig to fix the shoulder joints but eventually drilled the plug with no luck getting to one of the screws and left the other one alone. I also cant move the right upper hip and i assume that its paint locked. How do i open these figures up with out doing to much damage to them like i did?????

All parts except for the mid-section on the body are sonic-welded, you'll need to cut open the along the seams even after the screws are removed. Not impossible but requires work and patience.
Check first page on this thread (red JC) and you will see which section is not welded.

Hips are on a snap-on ball joint you can pop right off.

There are no sure methods for screw cap removal, for most part they are partially or fully locked by weathering.
You could try tapping them first (break the weathering seal) and pull out with something sticky like glue dots.
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Post by deru_here Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:48 am

i've tried that with the back with no success... oh dear. imma try getting the hip open which is a slow process so far.

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Post by UsedUniverse Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:07 am

You could try to see if someone has parted out the body on ebay or you could join the Unofficial ThreeA Legion Buy/Sale/Trade Group on Facebook and ask if anyone is selling a body.

I tried only once to pry open a 3A body to no avail. So I just used a extra body I had and swapped out the damaged one.
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Post by deru_here Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:21 am

Oh okay then, its really hard. It seems this body has been sonic weld to hell and back. Gonna have to buy a spare one

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